Yaxchilán, Bonampak, Calakmul - anyone been?

[Ginger]

So we are heading out of dodge on Saturday for a 3-4 day trip inland to see Palenque again, and to visit Agua Azul this time. At the suggestion of Babaloo we are also going to catch Misol-Ha.

When checking out driving directions, etc. I noticed some information on Yaxchilán and Bonampak, as well as Calakmul. I am wondering if anyone had visited these places and has any info regarding distance, culpability with kids, etc. As far as I can ascertain Yaxchilán and Bonampak are about 2 hours from Palenque and pretty close together, so easy to see on the same day? But I'm really wondering about Calakmul....like how far of a detour off the highway it is, is it worth it, etc. It seems from the map it is right off the main highway on the way to Escarcega.

Anyone with info? THanks!

[Babaloo]

Not sure about those places, but I think you need to stop here, at Agua Clara.
It's between Misol Ha and Agua Azul. Beware the aggressive little natives!

[Dan-0]

Ginger, like you, I have been to Palenque but I haven't been to Yaxchilán and Bonampak. But I've heard a little about the trip some time ago. I think they're kind of remote and you have to take a boat to get to them. Bonampak is famous for its murals, which are some of the most well-preserved in the Maya world. I have been to Agua Azul once, and I loved it.

If you go, please take some photos so we can visit there vicariously with you! Have a great trip to Chiapas!

[jamnkats]

Originally Posted by Ginger

So we are heading out of dodge on Saturday for a 3-4 day trip inland to see Palenque again, and to visit Agua Azul this time. At the suggestion of Babaloo we are also going to catch Misol-Ha.

When checking out driving directions, etc. I noticed some information on Yaxchilán and Bonampak, as well as Calakmul. I am wondering if anyone had visited these places and has any info regarding distance, culpability with kids, etc. As far as I can ascertain Yaxchilán and Bonampak are about 2 hours from Palenque and pretty close together, so easy to see on the same day? But I'm really wondering about Calakmul....like how far of a detour off the highway it is, is it worth it, etc. It seems from the map it is right off the main highway on the way to Escarcega.

Anyone with info? THanks!

We've been to Calakmul and really loved it. I must have posted at playa.info about it so that means the post has been removed - I don't think I posted here. Anyway, it was a whole trip report so that is all gone. I don't really fell like recreating that but you can check our blog (Hell’s Half Acre — Musings from the Caribbean) and pictures (flickr link at the blog).

There is a hotel at the entrance to the biosphere road (pricey) and also cabanas at La Selva (restaurant about 2km from entrance road). The road is I think 40km from MX186 to the site and another 1-2km of walking to the site but it is so worth it. Let me see if I can come up with some links...

Bakalar, Quintana Roo

Flickr: Search Mamahops' photostream

[Ginger]

Rick, yes, I had forgot Agua Clara! We will also visit there.

Dan, I will take lots of photos! I have heard lots of the murals, and of them being in color. Very cool.

Jamncats, thanks so much for the info! You have sealed the deal for Calakmul. I see by your blog then that you travelled about 30km on the road, so I take it that it must have taken you about an hour or 2 to get to the ruins site where you would start walking then? Thanks for the info about the hotel and cabanas also, seems like it would be also a great stopover on the way to Palenque also, I'd think by looking at the maps we'd be able to arrive there from Playa in about 6 - 8 hours? What do you think?

[jamnkats]

Well, I don't think it would take 2 hours, but we stopped a few times (looking at termite mounds and chicle trees). It is an extraordinarily narrow road and they are constantly "working" on it. The guys who run the site ride in and out on bicycles so if you leave at the end of the day (we spent the entire day there), offer them a ride to the exit. I would say it should take about an hour. there is very little to do on the way in - you're hemmed in by the jungle - no vistas and you can't even see the site from the parking lot. I remembed it was a bit of a walk from the parking lot to the site as i was carrying a 4yo (or was she 5?) on my back.

From PdC/PaaMul it takes about 4 hours to get to Chetumal/Bakalar (the turnoff to MX186) and then you hit Xpuhil and I would DEFINITELY take a break there for lunch. There are 3 sites nearby to Xpuhil and those are all interesting on their own rights.

MX186 is really a very bad road until you hit Palenque, so I wouldn't expect to average more than 60-80kph. I would say maybe 2 hours to get to Calakmul? I would be a VERY long trip to try to hit Palenque unless you left at 6am or something.

Enjoy!

[Ginger]

THanks for the extra info, I greatly appreciate it.

I do remember that road being pretty bad....some pretty horrible potholes if I remember correctly. We had left Palenque around 7am and pulled into Playa around 9pm but it was no picnic driving from Felipe Carillo in the dark.

We are very excited about the trip!

Originally Posted by jamnkats

Well, I don't think it would take 2 hours, but we stopped a few times (looking at termite mounds and chicle trees). It is an extraordinarily narrow road and they are constantly "working" on it. The guys who run the site ride in and out on bicycles so if you leave at the end of the day (we spent the entire day there), offer them a ride to the exit. I would say it should take about an hour. there is very little to do on the way in - you're hemmed in by the jungle - no vistas and you can't even see the site from the parking lot. I remembed it was a bit of a walk from the parking lot to the site as i was carrying a 4yo (or was she 5?) on my back.

From PdC/PaaMul it takes about 4 hours to get to Chetumal/Bakalar (the turnoff to MX186) and then you hit Xpuhil and I would DEFINITELY take a break there for lunch. There are 3 sites nearby to Xpuhil and those are all interesting on their own rights.

MX186 is really a very bad road until you hit Palenque, so I wouldn't expect to average more than 60-80kph. I would say maybe 2 hours to get to Calakmul? I would be a VERY long trip to try to hit Palenque unless you left at 6am or something.

Enjoy!